I've decided to add a new semi-regular feature to my site, which I think you'll all get a kick out of. Every now and then, I'll write about some of my favorite places and maybe toss in an anecdote or two along with some pictures. I figure that it can be somewhat entertaining, and it's also a good cure for the occasional bout of writers block that I sometimes suffer from.
So for my first installment, I give you Catalina Island. Those of you from Southern California are very familiar with it--it's a wonderful place for a weekend getaway. And although it's less than 30 miles from the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles, it feels worlds away. Most tourists and visitors spend their time in Avalon, the main 'town' on the island, and also the main harbor.
Most folks that come out to visit arrive by high-speed ferry from Long Beach or Newport, but cruise ships also call on Avalon. Myself, I prefer to sail there on a small boat from Marina Del Rey.
If sailing, the trip takes about six hours or so, maybe a little longer depending on wind and weather, but I can tell you this--that six hour 'road' trip is infinitely more enjoyable than driving between Phoenix and Las Vegas.
It's a pretty easy sail, not quite a straight shot from MDR, but if you know what you're doing and can use a chart, a clock, and a compass, you can easily find your way there, even if it's a foggy day. And if you have a GPS unit, it's fantastically easy to find.
The picture above was taken on Easter weekend of 2002, the first time I sailed to Catalina unsupervised. It was a cold, grey, and windy weekend--the sea was angry that day, my friends--and my 'crew' of Ed W, his wife Michelle, and Derek spent the whole time huddled up under the relative warmth and protection of the dodger while I was at the helm taking the full brunt of the weather like that guy pictured on the box of fish sticks you get at the grocery store. Anyhow, I'll admit that I was a bit nervous, having signed my name on the dotted line and being responsible for a boat that was worth more than my house at the time along with the lives of three of my friends. But I was the most 'experienced' sailor on board, so I assumed the duties of captain on the trip.Once we got about two hours out of the safety of Marina del Rey, that's when reality struck--it was so foggy that we couldn't see anything--and we were crossing the main shipping channel for the port of Los Angeles, so we had to dodge oil tankers and huge cargo vessels, none of which we could see. There was nothing but ocean and fog in every direction.
But we managed to navigate our way out there, and when I saw the harbor entrance to Avalon appear out of the mists, it was one of my proudest moments. That's when I snapped that picture.
But finding the harbor isn't the tricky part. Getting in is. First of all, it can be very crowded, especially on weekends and nice-weather holidays. And second of all, if there is a swell running and the wind is blowing, it makes it especially difficult to handle the boat and maneuver it in close quarters.
The first thing that happens when you arrive is to call the harbormaster on the radio, hoping that he has a mooring available for you. If not, you'll have to anchor somewhere (good luck with that, where the bottom is 70+ feet deep right outside the harbor and only goes deeper from there), or you'll have to head to the overflow area in the Descanso Bay ghetto. Or if you're a veteran, you'll just sail in a find the harbor patrol boat at the entrance and ask them for a mooring. If they have one, they'll direct you to it, if not, you're turned away. Sorry folks, park's closed. Moose out front shoulda told ya!
But if you're lucky enough to get a mooring, that's when the fun begins. You've got to maneuver a very unweildy vessel that weighs several tons and has no brakes, in tight quarters, all with the wind and waves working against you, with the added degree of difficulty of having about a dozen or so onlookers critiquing your every move. Believe me, it is not the time to fuck up--it would be very costly if you did.
Once you have the boat moored and secured, the stress is off and it's time to relax. We either crack open an icy cold Pacifico or make a batch of margaritas. Then we wait for the Harbor Patrol to come by again to inspect our
What?
Yep, every boat that comes to Avalon harbor has to abide by very strict environmental regulations--no discharge whatsoever from the boat while you're inside the harbor. So all toilet use has to go into a holding tank during your visit--no flushing out into the water. I, like everyone else who visits Catalina, love this rule. The water in Avalon harbor is unbelievably clear and clean, especially for California, and they want to keep it that way. So they toss a big neon green dye tablet into your holding tank once you get into the harbor, that way, if anything gets discharged overboard, it's like a big electric sign ratting you out. And then you'll pay a $500 fine and the boat is banned for one year from visiting Avalon--it's not allowed in the harbor whatsoever. (And you're doubly eff'd if you're in a charter boat--if that boat isn't allowed in Avalon, they lose a whole bunch of charter revenue, so they'll be all up in your ass). The bottom line is, keep your valves closed while in Avalon. Wait until you're at least three miles offshore, then let her rip, so to speak...
But because of this strident enforcement of environment regulations, Avalon harbor water is clean enough to swim in. Normally, one wouldn't swim anywhere near a concentration of moored boats, but here, no problem at all. It's like taking a dip in a very well-kept aquarium. And they have a great beach, too, so they encourage swimming in the harbor.
Anyhow, once all the business is taken care of, it's time to enjoy the island. The town operates a shuttle boat that you can call on the radio and they'll pick you up and take you to shore, but most people just use the dinghy and save the money (I think it's like $3 each way, and it doesn't run 24 hours, either).
Once you get to shore, there are lots of things to do. Avalon is first and foremost a tourist town, so there are plenty of bars, restaurants, and souvenir shops all along Crescent Avenue. If you're really motivated, you can hike up the hills for some great photo opportunities, or just rent a golf cart if you're lazy.
We usually like to wander a bit, maybe have a Cadillac margarita at the Catalina Cantina before finding a spot for dinner. But then after we eat and shop, we'll party till the wee hours at places like the El Galleon, Luau Larry's (the original 'noisy bar in Avalon'), or the Blue Parrot.
The most famous landmark in all of Avalon is that wedding-cake building, and it's simply known as The Casino. Now, when I first heard about that, I was all over it--I couldn't wait to visit. But it's not an actual casino. It more of a ballroom and conference center where they hold parties and gatherings, upscale weddings, and convention type of stuff. There are no dice tables to be found anywhere on the premises. However, they have one party every year that I'd *love* to attend--every year the Los Angeles Art Deco Society hosts their annual Avalon Ball where everyone dresses up in their best 20's and 30's outfits and dances the night away to big band and swing music. Maybe I'll be able to attend next May.
Anyhow, the casino is usually open to the public for tours and what not, and it's been there forever, so there are lots of old Hollywood ghosts still lurking about the place.
As picturesque as Avalon is, it faces east, so it's tough to get a good sunset shot unless you're out on the water. However, if you're up early in the morning, the sunrises are spectacular:
As much fun as Avalon is, it's not my favorite spot on the island. I prefer the more laid-back and off-the-beaten-path of Two Harbors. So on a weekend sailing trip, we'll hit Avalon to live like tourists, but then the next day, we'll sail down to Two Harbors for the relaxation part of the trip. But the best part of the sail is the huge school of dolphins that always greets you once you get out of the harbor. Seriously, there must be hundreds of them, and every time I've been to Catalina, they're always there, swimming along with the boat, frolicking and playing in the bow wave.
It's like they know they're a big attraction, because they always show up and swim right up next to the boat--sometimes close enough to touch! And you can see them almost laughing as they smack the water with their tails, splashing those of us who dare get too close. You can easily tell that they're having just as much fun as we are.
It takes a few hours to sail from Avalon to Two Harbors, but with Jimmy Buffett providing the soundtrack and a huge school of dolphins providing the escort, the trip is always over much too quickly.
But dolphins aren't the only thing swimming in the waters off of Catalina. One time I was at the helm of a 47-footer, with a few other folks aboard, and Eddie W. was up on the port bow, chillin' out with his feet dangling over the side. Somebody noticed a dorsal fin of a six-foot blue shark about ten feet away, pointed, and yelled Shark! and I about pissed myself laughing watching Eddie jump three feet straight up in the air from a flat sitting position. He managed to get all of his extremities back inside the boat, but he almost went overboard doing it.
Anyhow, Two Harbors is the polar opposite of Avalon. Where Avalon has paved streets, shops, bars, restaurants and lots of stuff to do, Two Harbors is kinda like going camping. There just ain't much going on down at that end of the island. Yeah, the main harbor is a huge cove, but as far as amenities go, all they have is a general store, a bar, two restaurants, some public restrooms, and a bunch of picnic tables and palm trees on the beach.
Why do they call it Two Harbors? Well, it's because it's located at the skinniest part of the island, the isthmus, which at that point is only a few hundred yards across. The main cove, located on the front of the island, is the area they call "Two Harbors", and the one on the backside is called "Cat Harbor". It offers more protection and better anchoring, but it takes several more hours to sail there, so we usually just stay on the front side.
The photo below, taken from a hillside above Cat Harbor on the backside of the island, gives a good overview of the Isthmus. Clickie for full-sized goodness. You gotta be careful when wandering around up there in the hills--there is a herd of wild buffalo that have been there since back in the thirties, and you don't wanna mess with them. They used to film westerns out on the island back in the old days, and the buffaloes the studios brought out there are the ancestors of the local herd that still runs wild.
This photo, taken from a hillside on the front of the island, shows the main harbor:
This is the view from the deck of a sailboat while tied to a mooring ball in the harbor. Not a bad place to spend the weekend, huh?
This is a
I prefer to hang out here instead of Avalon--it's much quieter and more laid back, and you can do stuff like grill dinner on the beach or have a bonfire. And it's not crowded with tourists, either--ferry boats or cruise ships are nowhere to be found. And because of the lack of civilization in the area, on a clear night, the stars are amazing.
Back in the day, Eddie and I stayed up half the night sitting at one of the picnic tables watching the fire burn down to embers and working our way through a case of beer and a couple of cigars. This was during the worst part of the recession about eight years ago, and I'd just been laid off and Eddie had gotten a demotion. After a few beers, Eddie suggested that we just say the hell with it and move to the island permanently, maybe pumping gas at the fuel dock or pouring drinks at the beach bar. Since I was doing absolutely nothing with my time back then, I was all for it, and in the moment, it sounded like a great idea. We still talk about that conversation and that night--there's nothing quite so enjoyable as sitting with your toes in the sand and a drink in your hand, watching the fire burn down and the moon rise up over the ocean, all while daydreaming of walking away from the real world.
Even though we never quite followed up on that plan, we've still made it back there a few times to grill steaks and drink beers on the beach. And after a full day of sailing and being a beach bum, there's no better way to sleep than with the hatches open and gazing up at the stars until you can't keep your eyes open any longer, the gentle swaying of the boat lulling you to sleep.
But the first thing you do when you arrive at Two Harbors is to hit the Harbor Reef outdoor bar for a Buffalo Milk. I don't know what's in it--maybe Kahlua, vodka, creme de cocoa, and some other stuff. But it's the official drink of the island and it is strangely addicting. It doesn't taste like it's very potent, but after about three or four of them, don't be surprised if you find yourself dancing with a stranger under the palm trees and removing various articles of clothing to compare tattoos. So I've heard... And after you make a few new friends at the bar, sitting around the fire later in the evening is just that much more enjoyable.
But that's about all there is to do out there unless you're scuba diving or snorkeling. And that's just fine with me. I'm cool with just hanging out amongst the palm trees and enjoying the eye candy of a harbor full of boats at anchor. But like any other camping trip, we'll spend the day playing horseshoes or cards, maybe hiking around a little bit and taking pictures, but if the weather is nice, nothing beats sitting there at the outdoor bar overlooking the water, sipping on buffalo milk and telling a few lies.
As much as we'd like to keep the boat and stay for a month, it always seems that much too soon, it's time to head back to the mainland and give the boat back to the real owners. The return trip isn't nearly as fun as the trip out, but I think that's probably the rule as far as weekend getaways go. And while it's not the Caribbean or the South Pacific, it's still an island and it's still an adventure, and that's why I like to get out there whenever I can.
Mikey
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