Monday, October 06, 2008

Cruise Week: Belize


The theme for today is Belize--One of my favorite third-world countries. And I don't mean that in a snarky, insulting way. But the truth is, Belize is still pretty much behind the times and undeveloped, with lots of abject poverty and other minor social ills. But it has been blessed with some of the most awesome natural treasures in the world--beautiful beaches, amazing coral reefs, and an ecologically diverse jungle that teems with all kinds of creepy, crawly life.

However, like most of Central America, they've embraced political stability, so the place is far from being a banana republic that were so infamous just a couple of decades past in that neighborhood. On the other hand, there isn't much bringing dollars into the economy besides tourism.

But between the resorts, the fishing, and all of the cruise visitors, they're making the most of it. I've written at length about my last visit to Belize, and as I recall, it was the hottest place on earth as far as I was concerned. And that's from someone who's been living in the desert for the better part of the past 20 years.


Anyhow, the cruise we're looking at also stops in Belize, which is a-ok with me! There's just one problem with that. Because of the huge barrier reef that shields damn near the entire country, it makes for that awesome, almost unreal, blue water that you see in the above picture. But that's because it's got a shallow sandy bottom. Very shallow. Too shallow for cruise ships to get in close to dock. So what happens is that the ships anchor way offshore, and you have to ride the tender boats to and from land. And it's not like tendering in the Caymans where you're just a few hundred yards from the beach. In Belize, you're miles from shore, in deep water, so it's a royal pain in the ass to go to and from the ship.


So, is there like, a country around here somewhere?


Anyhow, once you get to land, it's well worth it. If you can ignore the Tijuana-like squalor of Belize City, and escape to one of the outlying cayes, then you've got all the tropical paradise you can handle. Palm trees, sunshine, cheap rum, beautiful clear water, friendly natives--basically all the ingredients of a perfect day.



Looking at the shore excursions that are available in Belize, nothing really strikes my fancy. Belize is relatively new to the cruising scene, so their tourist infrastructure isn't quite up to speed like most other places in the Caribbean. If you want to do anything in Belize, half of your time is spent just getting there. Tubing on a jungle river? How about a long tender ride to shore, an hour long bus ride, a 45-minute walk through the jungle, followed by an hour and a half in the water. Then do it all again, in reverse. Yep, for a 90 minute jungle cave-tubing trip, you're gone for seven hours. While it would be fun, you won't catch me wasting my whole day getting there and back. Even the Belikin brewery tour, an activity that's right up in my kitchen, requires a 45 minute bus ride once you make it to shore.

However, there are a few interesting snorkeling excursions that are available, along with a private island beach break that's not too far from the ship. If I were SCUBA certified, there are some fantastic dives available, but that's an expense not in the budget this year. So it looks like I'm leaning towards hopping on a sailboat and heading out to a remote island for a day of relaxation.


In fact, I may not even make it to the mainland while I'm there. I'd rather avoid the crowds and be someplace where the palm trees outnumber the humans. If, for some reason I *do* make it to the mainland, it'll be just long enough to grab a water taxi out to Caye Caulker where I can find a secluded beach club to hole up at all day, alternating between staring at the ocean and staring into my rum drink. It sure beats fighting the crowds at the trinket shops fighting over those stupid Belize It Or Not t-shirts, which are made in China anyways.

As beautiful as Belize is, it's the most difficult of all the stops on the itinerary. Luckily, it's in the middle of the trip, so the patience factor won't be as much of an issue. But you have to already be unwound before you get there, otherwise you're likely to hate it.

Mikey

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